Friday, June 27, 2008

Lishui






So I made my first solo foray into "real" China by going by bus to Lishui, a little village of two million people about four hours from Hangzhou. Of course, at the bus station I got on the wrong bus and got totally confused as workers looked at my ticket and yelled at me in Chinese. My bus had already left so they put me on the next one.

I sat next to a Chinese guy and he said "Hi," but actually spoke zero English. He yelled on his cell phone every five minutes. The extent of our conversation was thus:

He said something I didn't understand in Chinese.
I said, I don't speak Chinese. Then I said I was American.
He said America and gave a thumbs up.
He looked out the window at China, said Zhongguo and gave a thumbs down.
I said No, Zhongguo thumbs up. We were passing some beautiful mountains and little farms and ponds and it was a really a beautiful landscape.
He made signals with his hands as if to say "Compared with America, China sucks, and is way behind."
Then he got back on his cell phone.

Apparently a lot of Chinese say this. Some kind of inferiority complex. Or talking about countries as if they were soccer teams.

I got to Lishui and Brandon, who I was visiting, picked me up on his motorcycle. He'd once had his motorcycle confiscated by the police, and it was banged up from the time he hid a pedicab. He drove like a local and spit like one (namely, on walls.)

From his apartment (really a dorm room at the university where he teaches) you could see green mountains and farmers working their plots with hoes. From the back balcony you could look right into the Chinese dorms where eight boys are packed into one dorm room. They walk around in speedos or boxers and smoke.

It was like a non-stop sauna in Lishui. We didn't get up in time to escape the heat of the day when he went on a hike through the mountains the next day. I felt like my skin was burning the second the sun touched it -- but I was fine. The hike went up some steep rock faces, through an orange and plum orchard, up to pine trees and ferns, and tombs. Brandon once got drunk up there from an offering of Baijiu someone had left on their ancestor's tomb.

He showed me a cave where a hermit (or hermits?) from the Temple below lives. There was a recording of chanting playing but nobody home.



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The hermit had a grand view of Lishui. There was actually a National Geographic article written about Lishui by Peter Hessler.
The hermit in her rocky redoubt has no doubt seen a lot of changes in the past ten years.



I felt like I was in a sweat lodge in that cave, and was looking forward to going to a lake that Brandon had sold me on. Unfortunately it started dumping rain as we were walking to the lake later that day and we decided to ditch the idea. We just drank a few beers under a mushroom shaped shelter on his campus.



One of Brandon's students, Rain (they often have hippy English names -- Rain, Fire, Sunshine. Brandon named one of his students Gecko), took me to the bus station and sent me off. She told me the Chinese ideal of beauty is not a tall woman, but one who is "small and exquisite." This made us both laugh.

Other news:
I went to a Thai restaurant with Joe and his friend Judy or Sara (she can't decide on an English name) and they just played "Hotel California" on repeat. There was a face-shaped fortune-telling machine that said "Plough a one-yuan coin through the nose-hole."

I got a massage from a blind man. "Blind massage" is actually a thing here. It was good though Chinese massage is rough.

I went to a doctor at the hospital here for my thumb which I hit probably two months ago and it still hasn't healed completely. I wanted to get acupuncture which they do in the hospitals here (along with massage and herbs). Instead he prescribed Imada Red Flower Oil which burns like hell but smells good.

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Naaature


"Hutongs" of Hangzhou -- (hutong = old neighborhood)


Random deer in random garden in the hutong

Solar hot water is everywhere in China. View from our building.

Joe and I walked up to the mountains behind his campus...and then down the back way (the free way) into the Hangzhou Botanical Gardens, after an inconvenient downpour sent us dashing for cover and ruined our original plan of walking to the Lingyin Temple.


There was the Systematic garden, in which the plants are grouped by family. I was nerding out in the Legominoseae section, checking out all those strange NFTs! With their cute pinnate leaves!





Nelumbo nucifera

A smidgen of debauchery

Last Wednesday we went to a bar with a cheap happy hour called 7 Club. When we got there we saw a few people we know, including Ben, a good-natured yet cantankerous middle-aged Brit with stained teeth. He'd offered to give me a cell-phone he doesn't use the previous week, and as soon as he saw me he brought it up again and promised to give it to me tomorrow, which was sweet.

Our friends left to go to a Reggae Bar before Joe and I had finished our beers so we just took one with us, just left the bar with this massive can of German beer. China's cool with that. The snap on it broke later so we had to jab it open with this card-shaped, fit-in-your-wallet multi-tool that Aaron, Joe's scheming Canadian friend, wants to market on Ebay.

We sat on the steps of this massive stone mansion next to Reggae Bar, drinking Carlsbergs from the bar, smoking spliffs and having meat-sticks hand-delivered us. China is cool like that.

Except for the ridiculous hangover a night of dancing and drinking Carlsberg inexplicably gives you. We discovered the hard way that the Carlsberg here probably has formaldehyde in it and totally destroys you for the entire next day. Not recommended.

We made plans to drink Absinthe at 7 Club next weekend with a heavily bearded, San Diegan Mescaline-Jesus dude, and his Chinese Yoko Ono look-alike girlfriend. Should be interesting...

Herbal remedies

It's been raining a lot. There hasn't been a clear day since I got here. We went to a big box camping store called Decathlon and got rain-suits and an uber-umbrella.

I developed a sore throat so using my new rain gear I went downtown to a 120-year-old herbal medicine place. An English-speaking doctor diagnosed me. After looking at my tongue he said "You eat too much." He could tell by the aspect of my tongue. I can tell by the size of my belly.


I also told him to give me something for my immune system, so he prescribed me a plant called Tie pi shi hu. It was basically a chewy, tasteless weed that would get stuck in my teeth:



They prepared five packets of herbs in their in-house workshop. I drank a tea made from the herbs for five days -- even though my sore throat was gone by the second. I didn't want to waste the herbs. Also, I thought it might help with a sudden case of freakin' pink eye which I haven't had since 6th grade. I quick visit to the on-campus hospital, a 5 yuan ($.75) fee to see the doctor, and $7 for three different kinds of eye-drops took care of that problem within a few days. I'm going to say that the herbs helped too.



They made a jet-black tea that was quite difficult to drink. I had to buy sugar to put it in, and it was still pretty horrible.


The doctor also showed me some crazy expensive ginseng, bird's nests of made from the saliva of cave swifts in caves in Indonesia, massive medicinal mushrooms, and sliced deer antlers.


The workshop where they assemble the herbs:

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Rain


Man fishing in a canal in the rain.



It is just dumping down right now. It is the second day of non-stop rain. And it won't be over tomorrow according to the forecast.





I didn'trealize that June is the rainy season in Hangzhou. 





Average rainfall:45 inches


Average for June:8 inches





No wonder there is so much water here:canals, rivers, lakes, ponds, etc.

On a Chinese movie set

Through Joe'sfriend Mark we got jobs as extra's on a Chinese movie set. We got to dress up as 1940s colonialists (I was given twine for a belt!)and stand on a dock on Tai Hu lake while Guomindang soldiers stormed the boat we were boarding, searched it, found the Chinese couple they were looking for, tore off the protagonists'fake mustache, and escorted him away with guns in his back.













It sounds fun, but it was actually pretty horrible standing around in ill-fitting shoes while the sun beat down (itwas foggy, actually, but we still all got horribly sunburnt).


















Sorry for this font, but I can'tseem to change it...





We went to a disco in Jiangyin the night before we worked on the set. Chinese kids are awesome dancers. They go all out. Unfortunately the dance floor was practically fenced off and utterly packed, while the rest of the place was devoted to small tables where people play a drinking game with dice.








People on stage would announce songs and sometimes sing them. And there were awesome go-go dancers Behind them was a crazy light show. A guy in a spiderman suit later got on stage and danced erotically with afemale dancer.




http://www.flickr.com/photos/27352360@N04/sets/72157605516724697/

Friday, June 6, 2008

Chongming Island








After reading this Popular Science article, I wanted to investigate Chongming Island, the planned site of a purported "Eco-city" called Dongtan.

The pictures look good:



















But the article does a good job of debunking it:

""Is it realistic?" asked a German architect standing near me of his Brazilian friend. "It's total crap-propaganda," the other replied.

The buses next took us to a patch of supposedly sustainable McMansions, and the multinational crowd of architects scoffed at the American-size, single-family homes. Clearly built forthe elite, they had giant living rooms, garages, balconies, and sculpted yards with rock gardens and bamboo-shaded walkways. "This one will be perfect for 30 or 40 migrant workers," whispered a Swiss planner. "There are no stores in the bottom floors, no places to eat," griped a Spaniard. "They'll have to drive everywhere."

We caravanned to an organic farm with no organic farmers and then to the Dongtan wetland, where not a single bird was in sight. With the bridge soon to connect mostly undeveloped Chongming to downtown Shanghai (travel time will be shortened to 40 minutes from the current three hours on boat and bus), construction was everywhere-villas, apartment blocks, bridges, roads-and very little of it seemed particularly green."
Everything I'd read had said that, despite the fact that the first phase of the city is supposed to be done by 2010, construction hasn't even started. Nonetheless, my curiousity was aroused -- I've been interested in urban planning/architecture, especially of "alternative" places, for a while now -- and I had to go take a look for myself.
The bus ride to the ferry revealed lots of canals, forests, and gardens in the interstices of the suburbs of Shanghai. Lots of corn growing along the sides of canals.
The ferry to Chongming Island took an hour. It was already two in the afternoon when we got to Chongming city, and by talking to the restaurant owner where we ate, we found out that Dongtan was an hour away by taxi, and there was nothing there.
Yet, from where we were eating, we could see a brown road sign that said, "Qianwei Ecology Village." We both looked at each other and wondered what the hell an Ecology Village is. We finished lunch and hopped in a taxi to check it out.
We still don't really know what it is. Apparently it's half-way amusement park, half-way demonstration village for the "Eco-Shanghai" greenwashing campaign. The taxi driver told us we "got there too late." It was a Monday. On the weekends moneyed Shangainese come out to take boat rides and eat home-made farmer food. There was a solar power plant called Solarfun.
There was nothing for us to do there so we had the taxi driver take us to another place he mentioned, a Forest Park. Taxiing around Chongming Island was fascinating. Almost all the land is in some kind of agroforestry system, sometimes stacked with multiple species. The plots of land are small and planted to many different species of trees, not one big monoculture. There were only a few open fields of wheat and suchlike.
The Forestry Park, as Joe predicted, was another abandoned half-amusement park, half-artificial natural setting. The Forest was probably an old tree farm. There were bumper cars, a climbing wall, a zipline, a roller coaster, a shooting range. It was, however, massive and labyrinthine, and quite beautiful at points. Bamboo gardens, lakes, bridges, lotuses -- the Chinese are excellent ornamental garden-creators. Nobody else was there but us, construction workers, and people staffing empty cafes and rides in the far reaches of the place. We rented a tandem bike and almost got lost. We had to hurry back to the taxi so we could catch the ferry. I left with the feeling we'd only seen a small corner of the place, that it extended out infinitely in every direction.